Creating an Accessible Bathroom

A safe, accessible, and inviting space.

After 18 months of researching, planning, sourcing, and construction, my barrier-free accessible master bathroom is finally finished. I want to share with you some insights that I learned going through this process that might help you if you are considering creating a safe and functional accessible home bathroom.

Before I start, I want to call out my provincial government for their outdated income thresholds that in the end denied me any access to supportive funding. The Alberta thresholds were established pre-COVID in 2019 with a maximum income allowance of $36,500 (CDN). Five years later, and record-breaking inflation, this threshold remains in place! Because my income was $1800/year over this threshold, my application for supportive funding was rejected in under 24 hours of applying! My letters to my representatives and the government have been ignored. So, to Dani Smith and her tone-deaf government, truly thanks — for nothing.

If you are planning to create an accessible bathroom be prepared that it is expensive. In my case, it has cost over $16,000, but I want to say I believe it is worth it.

The bathroom is an essential space in my home and I am sure yours as well. Being able to safely access all aspects of the bathroom, regardless of my state of mobility was my goal. Ataxia is always progressing and I wanted to be ready for whatever might come next, and I only wanted to do it once. But I also didn’t lose sight of the fact that a terrific accessible bathroom adds value to my property as I live in a 55+ community.

In planning for the project, I became acquainted with both my local building code requirements as well as ADA compliances even though neither were a requirement by law for a home renovation. There were instances that contractors attempted to sway me away from meeting code and compliance standards, I suspect because they wanted to do an easier job. Yes, it would have saved some money too. One company was adamant about installing a four-inch curb shower base because they could get that easily from their supplier. They didn’t get the contract. An installer wanted to mount grab bars on an angle simply because the wall studs were at those locations. I instructed him to install additional studs and mount the bars correctly. Horizontal and vertical bars are the best for helping pull yourself up from a seated position whereas angled bars cause you to twist your shoulders and place you off balance. As I go through the pointers below, I will identify the code/compliant elements.

Visualize Your Accessible Bathroom

Take some measurements and sketch out the changes you think will make the space safe and functional. Put ‘design’ and pretty on the back burner. If you are accessing the space with a walker/rollator or wheelchair, remember that there is a need for a turning radius in front of the shower necessary for safe transfer. This is also the time to plan for the number and type of grab bars and their locations. Horizontal locations are for safety within the space, vertical locations are at the entrance and transfer zones. If you are choosing to

The low unaccessible old vanity.

change the vanity to something that will allow seated or wheelchair access, measure how much room you have. This will be critical when you start selecting that element. Look online for well-designed accessible bathroom pictures for ideas. At every hotel I stayed at this past year I critiqued their accessible bathroom and learned from their mistakes. Codes don’t regulate design flaws.

Find a Good Contractor

I’m not saying your local handyman isn’t the right person for this job, but it is fairly complicated. Mine involved three trades: tile setter, plumber, and electrician. I painted. I tried to work with just a plumbing company but quickly discovered that what I considered a plumbing job and what they consider a plumbing job are two very different things. I learned and found Jamie, a fellow who owns and tile and flooring company (TileWorks) that specializes in kitchen and bathroom renovations. He had an ensemble of trusted tradespeople that he orchestrated. It took the stress out of the job and kept it moving towards a quick completion. My renovation was completed in 10 business days.

Supply What You Want to be Installed

I shopped online and worked with a local plumbing showroom (Splashes) to source the components for the bathroom. This was all gathered together in advance of the job’s commencement. I could then work with the appropriate tradesperson to review the component, its value in an accessible bathroom, and my desire for proper placement. I sourced and used commercial-grade components and fixtures. They were better built, suited the use, and were about the same price as residential-style fixtures. Yes, they have an institutional feel but they are also compliant with safety standards. When looking for grab bars, my OT directed me to a health-mobility supplier. I visited the store and found their residential-style bars to be inadequate for my use. They may work for you, however.

Waterproof floor tiling meets up with zero-threshold shower base.

As you can see from the before and after pictures there were three major elements to be changed: the vanity, the tub, and the flooring. With a zero-threshold shower, you need a waterproof flooring. Since the walls needed to be tiled, I opted to continue the same, non-slip tile on the floor. It also permitted me to have heat installed under the tile floor.

Vanity

Roll-up-to-height, ADA compliant, large quartz countertop, large sink. A small draw provides space for essentials. This unit has “eight inches centers” for the faucet and not your standard four. It allows for more space and easier access. (Home Depot approximately $780. Assembly required.)

The faucet is an ADA-compliant set with four-inch paddles and a swivel gooseneck spout. The large paddles make reaching and manipulating easier for those of us with tremors and from a seated position. (Moen, $290)

Shower

The commercial-grade shower fixture has both a wall shower and a hand-held shower which is attached to an ADA full-sized grab bar rather than the typical decorative slide bars found in most showers. This allows for another functional grab bar in the space. The hand-held shower has a water-interruption button so that you can turn off the flow without having to reach for the wall shutoff valve. Access to valve shut-offs should be no more than 48” from the floor. Important! Don't let the plumber remove the flow regulator from the shower head. If that happens, the water will flood the floor. (Moen - multiple suppliers, approximately $600. Note: this unit requires an additional “rough-in” and “diverter valves” (~$350).

Grab Bars

Four commercial grade (1.75 inch diameter) grab bars. The larger diameter provides a much better grip surface. Stainless steel mounting screws are protected behind end caps. A 24” is placed along the back wall and a 36” is along the long wall. The top of horizontal bars should be no more than 39” from the floor. We centered vertical bars to 39” as well. (Moen, from $40-60 depending on size)

Shower Base

The zero-threshold shower base is 36” by 60” and fits neatly into the old tub footprint. It is fiberglass with a pebbled slip-resistant surface. This was a major special order needing more than eight weeks for delivery, so plan well ahead of the construction date. You need this on the first day. (Maxx, MSRP $1900, but a local supplier might be able to help you with the price a bit.)

Flooring

As I mentioned, the wall and floor tiles are the same. The large format provides fewer bumps for walkers and wheelchair wheels to snag. I decided to treat myself (since the government grants weren’t dictating any conditions) to having electric heated flooring installed. When I get cold, my ataxic shaking really takes off and the warm floor on the feet has helped to avoid that when stepping out of the shower. (Schluter Heated Flooring System, approximately $1100)

A Few Tips

• Add a short, low towel bar by the shower to hang a bathmat towel on. It's just handy and out of the way.

• Consider additional LED lighting. The bath area was dark, but the electrician added an inexpensive flat pot light to brighten the shower space.
  

• Avoid shower doors and opt for a good curtain. If you add a door, your accessibility is compromised significantly. Doors do not provide a reliable safety barrier.

• Eliminate swing-in doors wherever you can. I replaced one door with a sliding barn door which made a huge space and accessibility difference. It was a DIY project a year ago.
  

• Source an oversized shower curtain. I found my 76” long waterproof curtain on Amazon. I added silicone-coated magnets to the bottom to help keep it in place.

If you want to age in your home or just make it more safe and accessible as your conditions change, then investing in an accessible bathroom is something to be seriously considered. Most falls in the home occur in the bathroom. Ataxians have repeatedly reported that bathroom safety is a concern. Check out what grants might be available to you. If you have limited income, ask for a financial contribution from a local service club or church. Making changes for the better defines living into ataxia!